NEZ: The Olfactory Magazine – Issue 05 Spring/Summer 2018
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{"id":1301873328230,"title":"NEZ: The Olfactory Magazine – Issue 05 Spring\/Summer 2018","handle":"nez-issue-05-spring-summer-2018","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e05 | Natural vs. Synthetic\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eChemistry is Our Nature\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe tell ourselves over and over again that only the finest and most exotic natural essences are worthy of a place in the best perfumes. Conversely, the word ‘synthetic’ is enough to make us shudder. But synthesis is the sole reason perfumery exists as we know it today, and the perfumer is able to compose formulae that are balanced but also diffusive, tenacious and, above all, unprecedented. We delve into the issue, taking in perspectives from science, botany, history, law, industry and marketing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis fifth edition of \u003cem\u003eNez\u003c\/em\u003e looks at the issues surrounding the use of natural and synthetic ingredients in perfume. What role has chemistry had in building the perfume business of today? Why are natural products so favored, and are they always preferable to synthetic fragrances?\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTHE NOSE OF ARCHITECTS\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDoes architecture offer space to a sense of smell?\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eICONS\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMaking good use of their noses, each in their own manner contribute to the world of olfaction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eODORAMA\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEverything you always wanted to know about smell but were afraid to ask.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe story of Calone\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe sense of smell of insects\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAll about cardamom\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAnalysing the smells of a holiday home\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCONNECTIONS\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInvisible yet undeniable, smells feature in all creative fields.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eExtract: \u003cem\u003eMusk\u003c\/em\u003e by Percy Kemp\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHuysmans: a spiritual voyage, nostrils wide open\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA smell-binding tour of Camden Town\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCreative spirits: Marlène Staiger and Nicolas Julhès\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cem\u003eFlower Dance\u003c\/em\u003e by Goldie Poblador\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cem\u003eA Table of Desserts\u003c\/em\u003e by Jan Davidsz. de Heem\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOlfactory column: Céline Ellena\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMAGAZINE\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eExploring the world of perfume through its origins, its trade secrets, its history and its professionals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBergamot, the prized scent of Calabria\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInterview: Michel Almairac\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFlashback: La Belle Époque\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe fantasy perfumery\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNATURAL \u003cem\u003eVS\u003c\/em\u003e. SYNTHETIC\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eNez\u003c\/em\u003e examines and debates the use of natural and synthetic ingredients in perfumes, viewed from historical, scientific, legal, industrial and marketing perspectives.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNature is chemistry!: Mapping the fragrant molecules of the vegetal world\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe genesis of synthetics: How perfumery entered modernity in the 19th century\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHow tomorrow’s scents are invented: The search for new molecules\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWho’s afraid of the big bad perfume?: An investigation into the real or supposed dangers hidden in perfumes\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe cult of the natural: When an ingredient becomes the selling point\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIn the garden of lost scents: The forgotten plants of perfumery\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaking an odor more real than nature:\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eThe nose and palate can no longer tell the synthetic from the natural\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePERFUME PAGES\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrom consumer products to works of art, \u003cem\u003eNez\u003c\/em\u003e takes a look behind the scenes of the perfume industry, and also appraises the 30 new fragrances making the news.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eINVESTIGATION\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe era of computer-assisted perfumery\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBEHIND THE BRAND\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eParfum d’empire – Marc-Antoine Corticchiato\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGENEALOGY\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eTabac blond,\u003c\/em\u003e by Coty\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePublished: May 2018\u003cbr\u003eEnglish only\u003cbr\u003e144 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charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e05 | Natural vs. Synthetic\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eChemistry is Our Nature\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe tell ourselves over and over again that only the finest and most exotic natural essences are worthy of a place in the best perfumes. Conversely, the word ‘synthetic’ is enough to make us shudder. But synthesis is the sole reason perfumery exists as we know it today, and the perfumer is able to compose formulae that are balanced but also diffusive, tenacious and, above all, unprecedented. We delve into the issue, taking in perspectives from science, botany, history, law, industry and marketing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis fifth edition of \u003cem\u003eNez\u003c\/em\u003e looks at the issues surrounding the use of natural and synthetic ingredients in perfume. What role has chemistry had in building the perfume business of today? Why are natural products so favored, and are they always preferable to synthetic fragrances?\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTHE NOSE OF ARCHITECTS\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDoes architecture offer space to a sense of smell?\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eICONS\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMaking good use of their noses, each in their own manner contribute to the world of olfaction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eODORAMA\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEverything you always wanted to know about smell but were afraid to ask.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe story of Calone\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe sense of smell of insects\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAll about cardamom\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAnalysing the smells of a holiday home\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCONNECTIONS\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInvisible yet undeniable, smells feature in all creative fields.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eExtract: \u003cem\u003eMusk\u003c\/em\u003e by Percy Kemp\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHuysmans: a spiritual voyage, nostrils wide open\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA smell-binding tour of Camden Town\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCreative spirits: Marlène Staiger and Nicolas Julhès\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cem\u003eFlower Dance\u003c\/em\u003e by Goldie Poblador\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cem\u003eA Table of Desserts\u003c\/em\u003e by Jan Davidsz. de Heem\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOlfactory column: Céline Ellena\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMAGAZINE\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eExploring the world of perfume through its origins, its trade secrets, its history and its professionals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBergamot, the prized scent of Calabria\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInterview: Michel Almairac\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFlashback: La Belle Époque\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe fantasy perfumery\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNATURAL \u003cem\u003eVS\u003c\/em\u003e. SYNTHETIC\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eNez\u003c\/em\u003e examines and debates the use of natural and synthetic ingredients in perfumes, viewed from historical, scientific, legal, industrial and marketing perspectives.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNature is chemistry!: Mapping the fragrant molecules of the vegetal world\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe genesis of synthetics: How perfumery entered modernity in the 19th century\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHow tomorrow’s scents are invented: The search for new molecules\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWho’s afraid of the big bad perfume?: An investigation into the real or supposed dangers hidden in perfumes\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe cult of the natural: When an ingredient becomes the selling point\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIn the garden of lost scents: The forgotten plants of perfumery\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaking an odor more real than nature:\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eThe nose and palate can no longer tell the synthetic from the natural\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePERFUME PAGES\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrom consumer products to works of art, \u003cem\u003eNez\u003c\/em\u003e takes a look behind the scenes of the perfume industry, and also appraises the 30 new fragrances making the news.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eINVESTIGATION\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe era of computer-assisted perfumery\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBEHIND THE BRAND\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eParfum d’empire – Marc-Antoine Corticchiato\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGENEALOGY\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eTabac blond,\u003c\/em\u003e by Coty\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePublished: May 2018\u003cbr\u003eEnglish only\u003cbr\u003e144 pages\u003c\/p\u003e"}